Memories of Cambodge

Phnom Penh
This is a great-looking city. Like someone dropped a chunk of Southern France in the middle of the tropics. Big, paved roads, sidewalks wide enough for break dancing (or krumping if you prefer), and monkeys...loose in the city. On our first day there we had a monkey sighting. You know it's a cool city when a pack of five monkeys is crossing the street on the power lines above your head. They were going to the "Center for Banking Studies". Best of luck, monkeys.

The fact that Phnom Penh is such a cool city makes the terrible history seem even worse (if that's possible). You can imagine this place filled with tourists - but it isn't, yet. Instead it's this big, developed city that feels like it could easily absorb double, or triple the current population. We did the tours (as you should, if you go) of the museums and killing fields that detail the rule of the Khmer Rouge party. It was really bad stuff -- and it didn't happen very long ago. The sites weren't as graphic as some of the museums in Vietnam, but somehow more impactful. Definitely one of those experiences that can change you. It was strange to walk through the city again afterwards. Good learning.

Battambang
(pronounced "Bottom-bong"). This was our slightly "off-the beaten-track" stop in Cambodia. Just a tiny town. Turns out it's the second largest in Cambodia (pop. 124, 000. The country has 15 million people....where are the other cities?). We took a seven dollar half-day cooking class that included a trip to the bustling morning market to buy ingredients. Unfortunately our guide wouldn't engage in any aggressive, angry bargaining (fist pumping, fish sniffing, vegetable throwing, etc.) - despite my repeated requests. Lots of fun. Maybe not pink aprons next time, though; I lost all my Battambang ghetto-cred. Can't go back.

Siem Reap
Angkor Wat - kind of a big deal. Those Khmers knew their architecture. Really amazing. It doesn't seem like something that could be built today, much less in the 12th century. Overly touristy though. Admission and guides were more expensive than the rest of our entire stay in Cambodia. We do have to give a "big ups" to the kids selling drinks and postcards and whistles who can't be outwitted (when they ask where you're from - which is the universal conversation-starter among touts - and you say "The moon" they say "Ahh, the moon...capital "the stars". And they can say it in about eight languages. You pretty much have to buy the bracelet after getting schooled like that by an eleven year-old). We went to temples at 5:30 AM to see the sunrise. I rated it "Groggy, but good."

Summary
After careful consideration and in acknowledgement of its perfect three-out-of-three good city score, we offer Cambodia the prestigious "Golden Elgar of Excellence" award for overall country merit. Congratulations, Cambodia - and seriously, good luck with the banking monkeys (could have been a "Platinum Elgar" had their training been complete by the voting deadline. Ouch!).

-TE

(P.S. Lots of new pics have been added to Flickr over the last couple of weeks. Check often!)